Grike, Crag Fell, Whoap, Lank Rigg, Kinniside Stone Circle, Cumbria.

Grike, Crag Fell, Whoap, Lank Rigg, Cumbria. Wed 04 Apr 2007

The sky remained clear as I drove to Ennerdale Bridge. I continued through the village and south over a narrow lane onto the fells by Blakeley. I parked off the road and was surprised by the amount of traffic using it. I assume they are workers on their way to Sellafield, which is probably the major employer round here. At Scaly Moss a rough track leaves the road and heads up to the pine forest and Grike summit. On the way I noticed a nice stone circle down below and decided to investigate on my way home as it was too far off my route to do now. The strange thing is that is wasn’t shown on my 1:50k map but was on the 1:25K one. I arrived on a substantial forest track but soon left it and headed directly across the fell towards Grike. I tended to the left in the hope of getting a view down along Ennerdale Water but I could hardly see anything.

Shelter and cairn on Grike.

Ennerdale Water from Crag Fell.

A couple of walkers had arrived just before me and I waited while they continued before I set off again. Crag Fell was my next objective and a nice stretch of flattish ground took me there. The couple had arrived just before I did but I decided to sit in the shelter of some rocks and have a drink of coffee while looking down on Ennerdale Water, which I could now see.

Below was an easy descent to the pass between Ennerdale Water and the River Calder. There was no obvious path down so I headed for a gate in the fence. I had to cross a fairly wet and boggy area to get to the path on the other side. My crossing wasn’t too successful as I slipped off the tussocks a couple of times and finished up sinking up to my knees in mud both times.

Distant view of Sellafield.

Head of Whoap Beck

I followed the wall to the SE for a while and as I came level with Whoap I turned SW and headed for it. It is probably one of the strangest summit names in Cumbria. The actual summit is fairly flat with nothing to mark its position. A little to the NW I could see a prominent stone which I decided would make a nice lunch stop. The couple I’d seen earlier were ahead of me and climbing the steep path up Lank Rigg. After lunch I followed their rout and started the descent to the head of Whoap Beck.

I decided to make the climb of Lank Rigg and Ordnance Survey trig point as it is a summit I’ve not visited. As I climbed up I met the couple coming down. We exchanged brief greetings again. I hadn’t originally intended to visit the summit so had not read up on it from Wainwright’s book 7 ‘The Western Fells’. Because I hadn’t done any research I missed the buried treasure! Wainwright made the following note in his book in 1965.

The summit trig point of Lank Rigg, and treasure?

Buried Treasure on Lank Rigg.

The only existing experience in the lonely life of the Ordnance column occurred on a glorious sunny day in April 1965 when it was a mute and astonished witness to an unparalleled act of generosity. In an uncharacteristic mood of magnanimity which he has since regretted, the author decided on this summit to share his hard won royalties with one of his faithful readers, and place a two-shilling piece under a flat stone: it awaits the first person to read this note and act upon it. There is no cause to turn the whole top over as though pigs have been at it – the stone is four feet from the column. If the treasure cannot be found at this distance it can be assumed that a fortunate pilgrim has already passed this way rejoicing. The finder may be sufficiently pleased to write c/o the publishers and confirm his claim by stating the year of the coin’s issue. If nobody does so before the end of 1966 the author will go back and retrieve it for the purchase of fish and chips. It was a reckless thing to do, anyway.

Kinniside Stone Circle

The clear weather was now turning a bit hazy and the distinctive profile of Black Combe was starting to get fainter against the background. I didn’t want to return to the col by the exact route I’d climbed up from it so I took a northerly descent down into the Whoap Beck valley. I reached the path and found the going much easier. It is a fairly isolated valley but up ahead I could see the couple who’d been popping up all along my walk. They’d stopped for something to eat and we once again exchanged greetings, this time for the last time. On reaching the River Calder the path becomes a track and a slight climb took me up to the road at Blakeley. It was then a short walk back to the car. My walk would normally be over at the car but I wanted to explore the Kinniside Stone Circle I’d seen earlier. I sat on one of the stones with Wainwright’s book and a flask of tea. I was puzzled by seeing some of the stones set in concrete until the mystery was cleared up by Wainwright in his book. So read on.

Kinniside Stone Circle.

It is a remarkable fact that the Kinniside Stone Circle, although a well known ancient monument, is omitted from the Ordnance Survey maps. The explanation seems to be that at the time of the first, and early subsequent surveys, the Kinniside Stone Circle was non-existent, all twelve stones having long before been taken by local farmers for use as gateposts and building materials. But forty years ago (1925) a grand job of restoration was accomplished by an enterprising working party, to whom great credit is due. Having cleaned out and measured the sockets in the ground in which the stones were originally set, they searched for – and subsequently located – the original twelve, recovered them all, and completely restored the site. Today the circle is exactly as it was when first laid out thousands of years ago, waiting to surprise the next ordnance Survey team. Note for survivors of the working party; one stone is loose.