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Grange-in-Borrowdale, King's How, Watendlath, High Tove, High Seat, Cumbria
[16.4 km] Wed 06 Feb 2013

NY 25345 17495
The weather forecast was for clear skies and a cold strong northerly wind. I parked outside the Church at Grange-in-Borrowdale and thought I noticed the sky clearing a bit. I set off in hope following the Borrowdale Road to the south.
I soon reached the roadside memorial carved in slate with a water trough adjacent. The inscription reads:


IN MEMORIAM
W. HODGSON.
He prayeth well who loveth well
Both man and bird and beast
For the dear God who loveth us
He made and loveth all.
SEPTEMBER
1878


The only information I could find about it comes from the Bill Birkett book about Borrowdale which says ‘The Hodgson memorial Well stands beside the Borrowdale Road’ W. Hodgson was the son of a local family and an artist of considerable promise who died at an early age.
The water troughs by the memorial were for the horses in the pre-motor age.
Unfortunately I don’t know what kind of artist he was.


IN MEMORIAM
W. HODGSON

Further along I left the road and took the track to the Bowder Stone. I was surprised to see a missing rung of the access ladder near the bottom. It looks to have been broken for some time and could easily cause problems to someone coming down the ladder. It’s a pity a tiny portion of car parking charges don’t get ploughed back in to the maintenance of these structures.


The Bowder Stone

I hadn’t re-joined the road for long before I left it again to take the path steeply up below Andersonband Crag. The path was through a broken down gate without any path sign pointing it out. It’s a fine and steady climb up and gives some excellent views of the valley across to Rosthwaite.


View from the top

Rosthwaite in the distance

View from Andersonband Crag

Blancathra from King's How. The distant clear sky never reached me.

Once though the trees the path opens up on to the upper area of King’s How. The path meanders though knolls and gaps to a rather dull summit. However, the views make up for the terrain and it’s a good spot to stay awhile and take in the scenery. The wind was far too cold for me to hang around so I headed for my next objective. The map marks a memorial near the summit. The position is a few meters to the north and isn’t at all obvious until you’re right by it.


King Edward VII

It’s another inscribed slab which reads:

In loving memory of
King Edward VII
Grange Fell is dedicated by his sister
Louise
as a sanctuary of rest and peace.
Here may all beings gather strength
Find in scenes of beautiful nature a cause
For gratitude and love to God giving them
Courage and vigour to carry on his will.


King's How memorial

When King Edward VII died in 1910, his sister Princess Louise, President of the National Trust, wanted to purchase the view-point of Grange Fell in Borrowdale, and make it, through the National Trust, a gift to the public in memory of the late King.
Public subscription raised the necessary funds, and Grange Fell was purchased. This part of Grange Fell was then named King's How.
I followed the path down to the fence and stile then continued SE to Brund Fell then NE to Jopplety How, for no other reason than to say I’d been to the top of the amazingly named minor hill.


Watendlath Tarn

The path east to Watendlath was mostly indistinct but with good visibility I could almost see my objective down by Watendlath Tarn. On my final descent I saw a small tent pitched below Black Waugh. Next to it was something on a tripod which looked like speakers or lights. I was puzzled. I reached the main path and followed it to the footbridge. By the farm building opposite and parked by the road were some large vehicles and people carrying batteries, a reflector and film camera equipment up to the tent area.


Watendlath Bridge

I spoke to one of the men there who told me they were filming a commercial. It must have been of some importance as there were about 15 people involved, a lot of lighting and even a smoke machine.


Film crew at Watendlath

I left them to it and took the steep path up towards High Tove. It’s an easy path at first, though steep, but then crosses open fell side which had snow on it to obscure the line of the path for most of its way. The good thing about the zero temperature is that the ground wasn’t as soft and boggy as it usually is.


Eddy Grave Stake

I made it to the gate at the High Tove summit then turned left to follow the fence north. With no path to follow and snow filling all the hollows the going was difficult all the way to High Seat Summit. As I arrived a couple also reached the top from the other side. We both complained about the wrong weather forecast which had said the sun would be out but all we had was total cloud cover. They set off south and I headed down to the west.


High Seat summit

After a while there was no path to follow but I just wanted to check out a sheepfold shown on the map. Before I got there I had a look at Pouterhow Pike which is an interesting feature looking more like a mine spoil heap on the fell side. Below it was the sheepfold I was heading for.


Descending High Seat

Sheepfold below Pouterhow Pike

The way to go

I descended by small streams that all fed in to Thwaitehouse Beck which took me all the way down to the Watendlath Road. I turned north to follow the road for a while before turning left at a cattle grid and following a path down the hillside to a wooden footbridge across Watendlath Beck.


Mossmire Coppice

There are several paths in the area but I kept to the one through Mossmire Coppice and on down to High Lodore Farm. I rejoined the road and just past the Borrowdale Hotel took the path across fields to the footbridge across the River Derwent.


Watendlath Beck

Over the bridge the path is raised on duck boards to cross an area which must be impassable at any time of the year. The path just touches the southern tip of Derwent Water at Great Bay before heading through trees to join a track and the road back to Grange-in-Borrowdale.


High Lodore

Last footbridge over the River Derwent
Some useful advice from Christopher Robin as you walk over the bridge.

'Christopher Robin thought that if he stood on
the bottom rail of the bridge and leant over and
watched the river slipping slowly away beneath
him then he would suddenly know everything
that there was to be known'
A.A.Milne, The House at Pooh Corner 1928

Footbridge over the River Derwent

Duck boards across the bog