A few squally rain showers during the night but they had stopped by morning. The mist still lingered and was still around at 10:30am when I set off down.

Early mist rolling over the mountains.

Wall repairs on Yarlside.

I wasn’t in a rush as this was my last day and all I had to do was get down to the Cross Keys at Cautley for lunch. I’d read about the famous Ham and Eggs there in Wainwright’s book and the last time I was up here on a day walk I made a promise to myself to return one day, camp on the summit and finish the walk with Ham & Eggs. On the way down I heard the sound of a quad bike through the mist. A little lower and I’d come out of the cloud and could see the two men who I’d seen yesterday working on the wall. I stopped for a brief chat before setting off again.

The hazy weather continued and it was quite miserable when I got to the Cross Keys. After taking a few photos I went in and ordered my much anticipated meal. My order was taken and I sat in the parlour while my pot of tea was being prepared. The sign outside said ‘temperance’ which puzzled me.

The reason for my visit.

The parlour in the Cross Keys.

An information sheet on the piano cleared up the mystery. The Inn had been dry since 1902 but people are welcome to bring their own drink and no ‘corkage’ charge is made. More history about the Inn can be found on their own excellent website. Unfortunately things were about to take a turn for the worse. The young lady who took my order returned to tell me they had run out of ham (gammon)! This was not the ending to my walk I’d wanted. I explained to her how far I’d walked to get here and she apologised and then got in the car and set off for Sedbergh to get some more ham in.

My bus wasn’t due until 12:53 and she assured me there was time to get there, back and cook my meal. I enjoyed the cosy parlour while waiting and before long she was back and I could hear my meal sizzling away in the kitchen. It was served in the dining room extension with a wonderful view of Yarlside and Cautley Spout in front of me. I was the only person in the place so it was just me, a nice sunny view and a massive plate of food. Sometimes things just can’t be improved on. I finished in plenty of time for my bus, which arrived on time. At Oxenholme railway station I didn’t have long to wait for the direct Manchester Airport train which dropped me off in Chorley.

Journey's end, the reason for my visit.