Apart from a couple of short squalls the night was calm. When I woke at 5am the sky was totally clear and black, except for a dazzling array of stars. The wind had dropped considerably and packing the tent away was easy. I was on my way by 7:35am and after wading through knee deep heather rejoined the track on the line of the roman road.

Morning view from my tent

Wet approach to Oddendale

The multiple scars were still there from yesterday's pack of bikers. I headed towards the open landscape to the north. At the first junction I turned left and walked towards Oddendale which I could see in the distance. I could also hear the noise of the M6 motorway to my left and soon the rushing traffic that caused it came in to view. By the time I'd reached Oddendale the clear sky had gone and it was now overcast, at least it wasn't raining yet.

I took the left track which joined up with the Hardendale quarry access road. I followed the grass at the side as the road was covered in slurry and was being used my huge wagons every few minutes. I arrived at junction 39 of the M6 motorway bridge and sat on the crash barrier for a brief rest. The A6261 here has no footpath and being the main link road to the motorway was very busy. I had to walk on the rough grass at the side until I reached the A6 and its one path on the east side.

Crossing the railway at Shap which
will be 160 years old in Dec.

The empty and crumbling Sleddale Hall.

I didn't need it long because I took the minor road SW towards Wet Sleddale Reservoir. I could see the pass I had to cross way in the distance with a level of cloud hanging just above it. Walking along the lane was easy and I turned right towards Sleddale Grange then the muddy track to Sleddale Hall. Some renovation work has been done on the hall but it seems to have been static for some time now. At least it's been re-slated which should keep the weather out and stop it rotting from the inside. It would be nice to see it fully renovated and lived in but being so remote and the cost involved I don't think it will happen.

As I left it behind and climbed steeply up the fell a small patch if sunshine broke through but it was soon replaced by rain. My original intention was to reach the Gatescarth Pass area but a bad weather forecast of very high winds made me think again. Mosedale Cottage was up ahead and that seemed a better alternative. After the steep climb the trail more or less followed the contour towards Scam Matthew. It was still terribly wet underfoot but at least the rain had eased. At the top of the saddle was the abandoned horse box. It must have been placed there intentionally as it is anchored to the ground. I can't see what its purpose might be.

Mosedale Cottage

Away in the distance I could see the cottage, its white walls standing out against the colourless backdrop. I followed the old track down to Mosedale Beck and crossed by the wooden bridge. As always the continuing track to the cottage was mostly waterlogged and difficult to follow. As I got nearer I noticed smoke coming from the chimney. Being Friday I thought maybe a party of weekenders were in residence but I hadn't seen any boot prints. Just after crossing the river I heard a quad bike start up and ride away. I don't know where he went because when I arrived at the cottage nothing was to be seen except fresh tyre tracks. I didn't hear the bike again.

Mosedale Cottage interior.

Inside the stove was still going but nobody was about. It seems odd that after getting the stove nicely stoked with coal the mystery quad biker should leave. As always when I call here the place was immaculate and the floor always swept clean. The only difference was the comfy chairs had gone and only basic ones left and a couple of benches. I put my rucksack in the sleeping room and set my cooking stuff up on a small table by the stove. I put a pan of water on the hot iron top of the stove and before long it was boiling. This is good news as it means I won’t have to use much gas. As the afternoon wore on the stove cooled and then went out. I saw a couple walking up by the river. We acknowledged one another's presence and they continued on their way. The weather closed in again and the rain started.