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Sanquhar, Meldon Hills, Gorebridge, National Mining Museum, Edinburgh, Scotland.
(4 day bike-pack)
Mon 16 Nov - Thu 19 Nov 2015

Tue 17 Nov 2015

Mon 16 Nov 2015
Tue 17 Nov 2015
Wed 18 Nov 2015
Thu 19 Nov 2015
There was light rain overnight and later it cleared and the temperature dropped considerably. By morning it was -3degC and I was very concerned about the state of the road and possibility of ice. I took my time packing up hoping that the 07:45 sunrise might warm things up a bit. Clouds rolled in and the veiled sun made little difference. I reached the road and things seemed OK. I saw a gritter lorry earlier but there was no evidence of any salt or grit on the road.

Climbing Devil's Beef Tub

The climb of just over a mile was steady to the summit at Devil’s Beef Tub. I stopped briefly at the lay bye car park and its information board before continuing. Further on was the stone memorial to to men who died in 1831 while carrying the mail. The two postmen (James McGeorge and John Goodfellow) lost in a snow storm near Annanhead at the top of the Devil's Beef Tub on 1st February 1831. Thankfully the traffic was light and the road surface good. From the memorial I continued down the long descent by the River Tweed on the A701. I stopped to photograph my bike by a sign welcoming me to the Scottish Borders. I was surprised to get a signal on my phone and was able to upload a photo to Facebook.

Postmen's memorial

The memorial

Welcome to Scottish Borders

It was overcast and still cold but I was glad to be losing altitude and hopefully avoid any ice patches. The only problem was the occasional large forestry Lorries passing at high speed. At the right turn off for the minor road over the climb to St Mary’s Loch I noticed the line of a disused railway along the valley bottom. It would be with me while I cycled by the Tweed. Up on the hillside to the left I could see a chimney which I assumed was for a mill in the valley bottom. As I approached I kept an eye out for a flume up the hillside and a building or ruin at the bottom. I saw neither but in the distance I saw the Crook Inn building.

The Crook Inn


The Crook Inn in better times

A sign said Save the Crook Inn but when I got there it was in a dilapidated state with boarded up windows. I stopped to have a look and a sign in the window had some historical information about it. In 1604 it was one of 4 of the first licensed inns in Scotland by James IV of Scotland. Since then it had had a variable history until being closed and the owners trying to convert it into flats. It looks a bit far gone for refurbishing back into a viable inn but I hope I’m proved wrong. In the car park was a vehicle and trailer. I asked the driver if he knew anything about the chimney high on the hillside. He said he knew nothing and probably didn’t even know it existed. I continued along the Tweed and saw a 3miles to shop in Broughton. I had to make a right turn ahead and didn’t know if the shop or turn of would come first.
I fancied a pie and a shop would have been very welcome. The turn came first so no pie for me. I turned in to the B712 to Peebles but soon left it to turn left on to a minor road that runs parallel. I knew it would re-join the B712 but it gave some relief from the traffic. It was a delightful narrow and quiet road that crossed the route of another abandoned railway. I stopped by a farm with an enclosure of black faced sheep that stood out in the landscape due to their clean white fleeces.

Black faced sheep

 By the farm entrance the map showed a feature called Alter Stone. All I could see was a large unmarked stone with a flat top. To call it an alter can only be due to a vivid imagination.

Alter stone

I soon re-joined the B712 and the rain began to return. I was on this same stretch of road a couple of years ago when I was also riding in rain. I even stopped at the same bus shelter, this time to take a photo. The last visit was to have a bite to eat. I continued to the A72 which I only had to endure for a short time before heading north on an idyllic and quiet road to the Meldon valley. The weather was turning wet but I didn’t have far to go. It was a historic valley with evidence of ancient settlements on the hillsides. One hill even had a hill fort. I reached my planned camp but noticed a better pitch on the far side of the river.

The road to Peebles

I cycled round and came to a building that was a former public conveniences. It was now closed due to vandalism. I found this very sad. By the adjacent parking space and into the road was a discarded beer bottle. Another sign of the mindless morons who frequent these locations. I picked up the bottle and put it in the waste bin. I struggle to understand the mentality of a person who would drink a bottle of beer then throw the empty into the road. I wheeled my bike to the grassy area I’d seen from the far side of the river and pitched my tent. I was lucky with my timing as soon after getting the tent up the heavy rain started. There was no signal for my phone but I had good FM radio reception. I needed headphones because of the rain hammering on the tent.

Rainy camp.