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It was a dark
overcast morning as I set off to catch the 7:30am bus to Chorley. A
recent price hike has put the single ticket up to £1.60 for just
over 2 miles. A slight drizzle had started when I arrived at the
railway station but the weather was unseasonably warm. The 8:23am to
Windermere was a few minutes late but nothing to be concerned about. |

Chorley Railway Station. |
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A wet wait for the bus in Keswick |
The temperature had
dropped and the drizzle increased by the time I reached Windermere.
I waited in the new waiting area of the rebuilt station building and
noticed a major design flaw. The main outside double door is
automatic and is activated by anyone passing nearby, even if they
are not passing through. And there are not two successive doors to
help preserve the heat. So every time the door opens, which is
frequently, the interior heat is lost. The 10:03am 555 bus arrived
for Keswick. I think it’s the first time I've seen a single decker
on this route. I don’t know if its due to falling passenger numbers
or just the winter period. I bought an £8.50 explorer ticket as I
guessed that the single fares for the next 2 buses I'd have to
catch would exceed this. |
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There must have been
a huge amount of rainfall recently as all the fields were
waterlogged. Rydal water was higher than I'd ever seen it. The minor
road at the north end of Thirlmere was about a metre under water and
I began to get concerned about the 79 bus I planned to catch to
Seathwaite. Some parts of the road are prone to flooding. In Keswick
I had 25mins to kill before my next bus so walked to Needlesport to
enquire about a replacement wind shield for my stove. My existing
one is made of thin soft metal that folds away but constant use has
caused fractures and the base plate is now in pieces. I've tried
temporary repairs with duct tape. They had the same make in stock
but at £13 I though I'd try and squeeze some more use out of my
existing one. |

A very wet Grange in Borrowdale |
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Fortunately the road
was open and the 79 bus went. I was the only one on it. The level of
Derwentwater was the highest I'd seen it and the ferry landing
stages we passed were all under water. It looked like the cellars at
the Lodor Hotel had flooded as hoses were coming out of them and
strewn across the forecourt. The driver told me the water levels
were still rising slowly but sometimes could rise with alarming
speed. It was just before 12noon when I got off the bus at Seatoller,
the end of the route and the bus's turning point. It was still
raining so I put my full waterproofs on and headed along the lane to
Seathwaite. A lot of water was still lying in large puddles and
luckily not too deep to wade through. |
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Towards Sourmilk Gill from Seathwaite |
Up ahead I could see
Sourmilk Gill cascading off Seathwaite Slabs in a wide curtain of
foaming white water. It was raining too hard to take any pictures
but when I arrived at the farm buildings of Seathwaite I found
shelter in the covered way between barns that is also a footpath.
One of the few incidences of a path with a roof. I tried a couple of
pictures then continued up the valley along the riverbank. I stopped
for a short rest at Stockley Bridge before heading up the steep path
to Styhead Gill. The wind had now dropped considerably and that was
one of my main worries out of the way. After the steep climb the
trail levels and becomes less obvious as it approaches the
footbridge over the Gill. I looked up to see the bridge ahead and a
couple walking down towards me. |
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They were out on a
day walk and after exchanging a few words we continued. At Styhead
Tarn the weather was just clear enough to see the far side of the
tarn but the overall visibility was quite variable. I continued to
the top of the pass and turned left to where the Corridor Rout
leaves it. This is the way I went and I climbed steadily until I
reached a point below Lambfoot Dub. There is no path up from this
point but I climbed up anyway and didn't find it too difficult as
long as the slippery boulder fields were avoided. At 14:50 I reached
my planned campsite and pitched my tent. It's one of my favourite
pitches but is frequently shrouded in bad weather. I was very wet
and my trusty Goretex jacket does not seem to be performing as well
as used to. I'd put my newspaper in one pocket and this would
usually have kept it dry. It was a very soggy mess that I pulled out
to try and catch up on the recent news.
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