Return to Whittle Wanderer

St Bees to Shap via Wainwright's Coast to Coast route, Cumbria. (4 day backpack)

Mon15 Jun 2009

Fri 12 Jun 2009

Sat 13 Jun 2009

Sun 14 Jun 2009
Mon 15 Jun 2009

It was a very calm night and the temperature dropped to 8degC so the tent was soaking with condensation and dew. This is my last day and I have a bus to catch in Shap so I decided to set of about 30mins earlier. The morning sky was clear and the surrounding fells were sunlit as I packed the tent away just before 6 am. Unfortunately I was a little to low to get the sun at that time in the morning so the tent was packed away wet. I set off up the path towards Angle Tarn and soon came to a major fork in the path. I couldn’t remember which the correct route was so I took the lower. It turns out they are both correct but the lower path gives nicer views down into Heyeswater.


Leaving Boredale Hause


Angle Tarn


Approaching Kidsty Pike.

The sky had clouded over a bit when I reached Angle Tarn but it was still a very impressive sight. I was surprised that nobody was camped but then it was a Monday. The path wandered by Satura Crag then steeply up to The Knott. The last part of the steep bit had been substantially improved with a raised path and stoned top with drainage ditches at the side. The last time I was here it was a quagmire. I reached High Street in sunshine and turned sharp left to follow the path to Kidsty Pike. The summit stood out prominently against the side of Riggindale. I had good views across to the Pennines and Great Dun fell and its radar station. I had a short break as it had only just gone 8am.

As expected there was nobody to be seen anywhere. On the descent to Kidsty Howes there was a mechanical excavator by the path which was in the process of being re-aligned and drained. I was glad to reach the side of Haweswater and finish the steep descent. The path now runs north along the west side of the reservoir and is far from level. It undulates quite a bit and some of the loose stony bits are unkind on the feet. Before setting off on this stretch I stopped by the bridge over Randale Beck to have something to eat.


Excavator above Haweswater.


Burnbanks.

It took 1hr 40mins to cover the 4miles to Burnbanks where I stopped for a 30min lunch break. I managed to get my water container filled by a woman cleaning her car; she went inside to top it up with tap water. I sat by the telephone box on the green and as I set off I noticed a sign pointing the C to C route through the woods. This was not the way shown in Wainwright’s Book so I stuck to his line. Down the road I turned right then found the original route crossing over a wall using jutting stone steps. The diversion goes over Naddle Bridge and both converge at Park Bridge. A green farm track took me to a fence where a marker over the stile pointed me up a green field to Highpark Buildings. I then wandered through delightfully green a buttercup strewn fields to Rawhead House and its well tended garden and immaculate lawn and drive.

I crossed over the Swindale access road and across rough ground to Rosgill Bridge where I stopped for a short breather. Along a farm track and across a field I came to Parish Crag Bridge then up through a field, passed a ruin then across more fields until the ruin of Shap Abbey appeared ahead. When I got to the Abbey there was still no one about. A steep concrete road took me out of the valley and up to the lane to Shap. I reached the bus stop by the green at 13:30, left my pack in the bus shelter and walked across the road to the public conveniences to have a quick wash. When I returned the 106 bus was at the stop and it was going to Penrith. I jumped on it just before it left. I was hoping to catch the 14:30 bus and hadn’t expected to get here so soon, so this was an unexpected bonus. At Penrith railway station I had about 30mins wait for the Preston train then change to Chorley and home for mid afternoon.


Approaching Shap