The coldest night so far with a low of -2degC and an ice covered tent. It was a surprisingly misty morning for the temperature and as I set off just after 7am it was still cold. I was just north of Willingham on the outskirts of Cambridge and was soon surrounded with commuter traffic.

Frosty morning

At first it was just cars and vans but as I got closer to Cambridge the number of cyclists began to increase rapidly. Many pottered on gently like me but a lot were quite aggressive and I was disappointed to see some blatantly jumping queues and red lights. When I got to the centre of Cambridge the mist had gone and a slightly hazy warm sunshine remained.

Cold and hazy sunrise

Entering Cambridge

Clare bridge over the River Cam

The River Cam south of Silver Street, Cambridge

Stopping to take in the river view

Orchard Tea Garden

I had another major objective on my ride to Sutton Hoo and that was to meet John Naughton for tea at the Orchard Tea Gardens in Grantchester, just south of Cambridge. I was in the town during the rush hour and tried to find as many quiet paths as I could to take photos and enjoy the magnificent views. Approaching the pre-arranged rendezvous with John at 10am I set off along the delightful Grantchester Lane to Grantchester and the Orchard Tea Gardens. They’re not just any tea gardens but about as famous as its possible to be because all the incredible people who’ve had tea there. On the approach I stopped briefly to look at a sign saying Grantchester Meadows. Not much significance in that you may say but the Pink Floyd track Grantchester Meadows by Roger Waters is on their 1969 Ummagumma Album. I reached the Orchard Tea Gardens at the pre arranged time of 10 am. There were several cars in the car park but the only person there was a rather large man who’d just been doing some work at the cafe. I couldn’t see John so assumed he was on his way. I began chatting to the man who said he was a biker (motor biker) in his spare time. It was interesting comparing experiences of the lanes without hedges and clear views of the countryside by bicycle and motorbike. I had another look into the orchard and spotted John. He’d been there all the time. My chat with the workman/motorcyclist was interesting but I think I’d have preferred spending the time with John.

John Naughton + cameras,
unfortunately he used one on me.

We made our introductions then went to get scones and tea. I prefer scones as they’re relatively safe wherever you go. Our conversation mostly revolved around our shared love of photography and the work of other photographers. John had brought a couple of his camera along. A Nikon D700 and the wonderful Leica M9. Both cameras are top of their class. Unfortunately he used his Nikon to take a picture of me that he later put on his blog. The time flew by and we covered so many interesting topics. I loved John’s description of how he became interested in photography. He was with his father in Ireland when they saw a lady photographer taking pictures. John’s father asked her what she liked about Ireland and she said the clouds. As a photographer it was the light and cloudscapes she liked. The young John was fascinated as she told him about using filters and what they did. Then she handed him her Leica camera to hold. John was used to the more amateur snapshot cameras and was surprised how heavy it was. The seed was sown and the bug of photography was with him. The time flew by and John had a Guardian column to write and I still had a long way to ride.

The weather was still fine but a wind had got up, and not in the right direction. I set off roughly SE towards Linton and Haverhill. I was surprised how busy the road was with large and fast traffic. Just before Haverhill I stopped at a lay-bye café caravan, the first I’d stopped at this trip. After a bacon butty I was on my way again. I reached the A1092 and cycled through the village of Claire then Cavendish. Then I reached the incredible building of Melford Hall which was mostly obscured by a pointless surrounding wall. Knock down the wall I say. Just south was Long Melford, another picturesque village. Then I reached Sudbury, a town I’d hoped to ride through the centre to check it out. No such luck. The one way system and no entry signs had rendered the interior impenetrable to only those locals with the necessary knowledge. I tried to find my way in, failed and gave up so continued to Hadleigh where I wanted to stock up with food and water. I had to ask a local for directions to a suitable shop but finished up at the Co-op for water supplies before continuing. I left the town to the east and found a grotty wood off the main road where I managed to get my tent up.

Stopping for a bacon butty