Some rainy squalls through the night but no rain while I packed the tent up. I was on my way by 8am and firstly called at the house where I saw the loom in an outbuilding on Sat. Once again there was a light on and this time a barking dog inside. Knocks on the door went unanswered so I continued on my way. I’d taken the precaution of putting waterproof trousers on and was soon glad I had because it started raining again. The road follows round a promontory then turns back on itself. Rounding a corner I came to a bus stop and two small children stood there on their own in the pouring rain. They must have been waiting for the school bus. I got cheery waves as I cycled by and was glad to return the greeting. I reached the next Harris Tweed centre but it was closed.

Closed Harris Tweed

It looks like Scotland in general doesn’t get going until late morning. Before the next road junction was the Bays Centre. An impressive newish building with a post office sign. I looked closer and there was no office. It was a community centre only, with nobody about. I’d just got up a climb when the rain began again so I stopped by a building to put my windproof top on. A cyclist came up behind with just rear panniers and no tent. He continued by in the pouring rain. I waited till it slackened before starting again.

after the storm

I continued along the coast to a gallery I’d visited before, the Holmasaig Gallery. An ‘open’ sign lay flat on the ground. ‘closed’ was on the other side and I think it had just fallen over. I knocked but there was no sign of life. Eventually I came to Finsbay Gallery with an ‘open’ sign outside. I followed the sign, knocked on the door and a woman let me in to the gallery, which was a room on the side of her house. Various artists and photographers had their work on display and she seemed to sell them on an agency basis. I explained I was on a bike and wouldn’t be able to buy anything. She left me to peruse the images. It wasn’t long before she was back. She asked which way I was heading, I told her and she said ‘well goodbye.’ I tried to tell her about some of the picturesque coastline I’ d seen along west Lewis and she said ‘I know I have been here for over 20 years, well goodbye.’ When she said goodbye a third time I got the message that just looking wasn’t welcome I left. She was English.

Gloomy morning on North Harris

Finsbay Gallery

I was on the road signposted to Rodel which had some fairly sharp climbs. Eventually I saw my next objective, the Church of St Clement. I visited it last year but didn’t get inside. This time the side door was open and I went in. I was amazed at the interior. It seemed to be set out more as a museum than a working church. There were no pews or alter so I suppose these would have to be brought in for a service. My original plan was to catch the 14:45 ferry from Leverburgh to Bernerey but when I checked my watch it was only 10:45. I realised that I could catch the morning ferry so after taking more photos of the church headed off into an incredibly strong wind for Leverburgh.

Church of St Clement

I got there about 11:20 and had time to get a bacon sandwich before getting on the 11:40 ferry. The sun was out as we sailed across the sound of Harris but the wind was making the ferry sway quite a bit. The cyclist I’d seen earlier was also on the ferry but when we got off at Bereray he turned right onto the island and I turned left across the causeway on to North Uist.

Church of St Clement interior

It was more of a strong side wind as I rode along but I was looking forward to reaching the main road as I new I’d have a tail wind. I was right. The 4 miles to Lochmaddy were so easy but some rain took the edge of the enjoyment. I stopped at the small shop on the outskirts but it was closed for lunch. The front door was closed but a man told me to go in by a side door and the lady would serve me. I bought a tin of beans and some chocolate then rode to the ferry office to collect water before pitching my tent on the grassy promontory by the jetty.

empty house on North Uist