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It was quite windy during the night
but nothing the tent couldn’t cope with. I had a long descent to
start the day so I but my waterproof top on as the temperature was
still only 10degC. Part way down I noticed a large dark cloud
blowing my way and soon rain started to fall. It didn’t look like
the shower would last long so I pushed my bike behind the main
building of the quarry half way down the hill. As I did so the rain
began to hammer down. Just then a man came out and said I could
shelter inside. I accepted his invitation and then he said I could
have a tea or coffee. With a mug off coffee in my hand we chatted
and I looked out of the window to see an unbelievable heavy
rainstorm. He said that sometimes the wind up here is so severe they
have to stop work. As I finished my coffee the rain stopped and I
continued my descent to the shop by the filling station. |
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I had a breakfast pie and had a brief
chat with the Yorkshire woman who seems to work in the shop and in a
building next door. I continued in to a headwind and soon reached
Tarbert. I didn’t go into the small town but continued on the A859
to the south. I turned off left after about 3miles to descend on a
minor road to the coast. The road wound round the headland at
Cliuthar and joined the road that continues right round the SE coast
of Harris to Leverburgh. The weather was an interesting mix and
though some slight showers blew across there was some sun. I saw a
sign for an art exhibition including something about St Kilda. A
short way up a track was a house and I knocked on the door and was
invited inside. The artist showed me many watercolour paintings of
the local landscapes and some of St Kilda. |
Boat building project |
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Church of St Clements |
She said many of the originals had
already been sold. I continued round the coast to the Church of St
Clements. Before having a look I cycled round the short circular
route to the small harbour. |
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The Church was very picturesque in its
mown surrounding of green grass and graves. Unfortunately it was
locked so I couldn’t check out what would have been an interesting
interior as the two doors I saw were at greatly different levels. |
Church of St Clements |
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approaching Leverburgh |
I rode on to Leverburgh to catch the
14:45 ferry but it had only just gone mid day when I arrived. There
some sun but a very cold wind. The Butty Bus was there so I had a
bacon sandwich before doing most of my waiting in the Calmac waiting
room out of the wind. |
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I caught the ferry to Berneray and set
off in fine but windy weather along the B893 back to the A865 across
North Uist. Yesterday I’d seen a couple on a tandem at the other
side of the climb before Tarbert. They’d just come over on the same
ferry and when I looked back I could see them in the distance. When
I reached the A865 they’d vanished from view. I was now riding SE
towards Lochmaddy and for the first time in ages had the wind in my
favour. It had gone 5pm when I arrived and I’d planned to pitch on
the same patch of grass as when I arrived last Wednesday. The Calmac
office was open so I filled my water bag from the sink tap in the
gents and set up camp. Before long the wind started again. |
the Butty Bus at Leverburgh |
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Whittle Wanderer