Rain during the night was still around
as I packed the tent away. I’d originally planned to stay on the
island for a while but with the bad weather and strong winds I
thought it best to catch the first ferry at 07:55. I wheeled my bike
to the pier waiting room and used the toilet facilities to have a
shave in warm water and a general clean up. The ferry was on time
but just as the ramp was being lifted a van arrived with a woman
passenger who jumped out for the ferry. They lowered the ramp for
her and we began the very windy crossing. As we approached the Skye
shore I could see the traffic speeding along the road with clouds of
spray in their wake.
Crossing
to Mallaig
Once ashore I used the bus shelter to
stop and put on full waterproofs. For a while I was OK as I had a
tailwind but as soon as I started the long climb over the Glamaig
pass I’d changed direction and had a headwind. Riding was hard
enough without the speeding motorists coming up behind and leaving
little passing room as they sped bye. Over the summit I could look
down across Loch Alhort. I was fortunate that on the long and fast
descent to the Loch there were no motorists coming up behind. I
reached Harrapol and as I left the town took the right turn for the
ferry at Armadale. As I turned I was heading fully into the wind and
with the rain adding to the discomfort it wasn’t a nice ride. The
road is ideal for motorists as it is wide, fast and mostly straight.
All the things that make it bad for cycling, even in good weather.
When I reached the first village I overtook a man who was walking
along the path beside me. He was getting soaked as he battled into
the wind with his coat flapping behind him in the wind. I wasn’t
sure what time the ferry was so pressed on as fast as possible. I
did stop briefly to check the front bag I have on my handlebars.
It’s advertised as waterproof but as my camera is in it I thought
I’d better check. I’m glad I did because there was a puddle in the
bottom so I quickly transferred my camera to a rear bag. Approaching
Armadale I could see a ferry by the pier. I was relieved to see
traffic coming off it as I arrived and queues of motorists waiting
to get on. It was the 11:40am. I had to go into the Calmac office to
buy my £4.65 single ticket. Another touring cyclist was there. He
was a young German cyclist who had also arrived via a 30 mile wet
ride into the wind. He was heading for Mull then back to mainland
Scotland and Northern Ireland. We wheeled our bikes onto the ferry
and I got out my length of chord I carry to tie my bike to the rail.
The rope hanging there was too short and useless. The German
struggled with his short rope and asked where I’d got my longer
chord from. I told him I carry it for ferries and trains and as I
had a spare chord in my pack I gave it to him for this and future
ferries. In Mallaig we discussed our routes for the rest of the day
and said our goodbyes. He set of into town to the shops. I’d
originally planned to camp near Mallaig but as I’d set of much
earlier than planned I decided to continue. The rain had stopped
though it was still heavily overcast. The main A830 east has been
considerably improved in recent decades but as this morning makes
for faster driving but less safety for cyclists. The road wasn’t at
all enjoyable. When I reached Lochalort the road was more or less
the old original road and less likely for motorists to drive too
fast.
The rain had now returned but at least
I had a tail wind to help me along. At the east end of Loch Eilt
there were traffic lights as a stretch was being diverted to a new
bit of road. Then there was another climb and a long descent into
Glenfinnan. I arrived to crowds of people and a lot of shouting. It
turned out to be the local highland games and in a field to my right
there was a tug of war going on. I cycled on to the Glenfinnan
Monument and wheeled my bike to the base. There was a charge to go
in and up the monument so I just had a look around the base.
Glenfinnan games
In 1745 the Jacobite Rising began here
when Prince Charles Edward Stuart ("Bonnie Prince Charlie") raised
his standard on the shores of Loch Shiel. Seventy years later the
18-metre-high (60 ft) Glenfinnan Monument - at the head of the loch
- was erected to commemorate the historic event.
Glenfinnan Monument.
There were many tourists around and
the car parks were full. Behind the town I could just see the
magnificent railway viaduct through the trees. It had stopped
raining about half an hour ago so I decide to continue Loch Eil
where I would leave the busy main road and head off on a single
track minor road. It was very pleasant reaching the right turn off
and cycling along the loch side. It’s a sea loch and masses seaweed
were along the shore. I kept a lookout for somewhere to camp but
first had to ride along until a stream came off the hillside to
supply me with water. I found a grassy spot with a stream and just
as the tent was up the rain started again.
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Whittle Wanderer
