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Kirkland, High Cup Nick, Great Dun Fell, Cross Fell, Cumbria. (3 day backpack)
Wed 27 - Fri 29 Apr 2011

Wed 27 Apr 2011

Wed 27 Apr 2011

Thu 28 Apr 2011

Fri 29 Apr 2011

I’ve two reasons for escaping to the hills today. The first is a plan I’ve had for a long time to camp on the summit of Cross Fell. The second is more recent and that I am so sick of the media coverage of the run up Fridays wedding of Kate and Wills I want to escape to the hills until it’s all over, or until it’s safe to come down. My first planned pitch was to be above High Cup Nick so I wanted to leave my car in Kirkland. To save carrying my full pack at the start of the walk I firstly drove to Knock and left by pack in the bus stop shelter by the public phone box before driving on to Kirkland. There is a small car park at the end of the road and as there didn’t seem to be a ban on overnight parking I thought it would be OK to leave the car. I walked back down the road and left up the lane to the farm at Baron’s Hill. The map shows an area called ‘Hanging Walls of Mark Anthony’ the map also reveals that they are ancient cultivation terraces.


substantial new footbridge

 They looked quite interesting but how anyone could describe them as hanging walls I can’t imagine. It was a pleasant sunny day with little wind as I continued to the end of the track and the property of Wythwaite. Across a large open field I came to a fairly small river and a large and substantial new footbridge. It looked over large and over designed for the river it crossed. Considering the thousands it must have cost it seemed odd that over the river there was no way marker to show which direction to go. The path is so indistinct that there is no sign of it as it crosses High Slack. At the far side I picked up a way marker and then a series of stiles showed the way clearly through fields and walled tracks to Milburn. Emerging in to the village from the open fields is a delight. An open expanse of manicured grass is surrounded with stone houses and occasional apple blossom trees in full bloom. Walking down the centre I stopped briefly by the flagless flagpole. It is huge and I wondered if it has other significance. I turned left at the telephone box to look for the footpath. I asked a young lady and two children who confirmed I was on the right track. Crossing a long field I crossed Stank Beck by a footbridge. The map shows the path on the right side of the wall but there was no sign. I was now walking on recently planted crops. After passing a large new wind turbine I came to large new farm outbuildings. There was no sign of the path so I had to ask a farm worker. He said the proper route for the path was the opposite side of the wall. Why can’t they put a simple sign up? I left Low Howgill and reached High Slakes then across fields to Milburn Grange.


Sheep near Milburn

It was then back across fields to Close House, across more fields to emerge on the road through Knock. It had been a very enjoyable walk without my pack and remarkably easy. I returned to the bus shelter and retrieved by ruck sack. Before heading up into the hills I decided to sit on a bench in the village and eat some sandwiches I’d left with my pack. A lady from the house opposite saw me and brought me a glass of water, which I gratefully accepted. We chatted for a while about my walk and her husband emerged and joined in. They were retired and moved to Knock 30 years ago. I thanked them and continued along the street. I turned left up a track then a footpath across fields to the base of Dufton Pike at the Pennine Way.

I’m still mystified by the number of paths with the Pennine Way label. Are there many routes or does it go in circles. A farmer was herding sheep through the gate with his quad bike and dog so I sat quietly so as not to disturb the sheep and allow them through and the gate to be shut. I then continued on my way along the path above Great Rundale Beck. Through a gate a landrover was parked and below two men were re-building the dry stone wall.


Doorbell in Milburn


wide view on the approach to High Cup Nick

The path I was on was now track status and followed a spectacular line along the steep north side of Dufton Pike. I came to the main track and followed it to the left then soon left it to follow a minor track heading steeply up and over Bluethwaite Hill. Through a gate it continued up Cow Band but then I left it to cross Little Rundale Beck, which was dry, and head off across open fell. Even up here were old spoil heaps and shafts. It was a bit difficult underfoot so I was glad to eventually reach the main path, another version of the Pennine Way, towards High Cup Nick. I soon got a good view of the vast bowl shape of the Nick. The path was rough for a while but then improved to a wide green track which was nice to walk on. There was hardly any water coming down the beck so only a dribble was dropping down to the valley below.


wide view from the Nick


Camp 1 above High Cup Nick

As I rounded the head of the Nick I looked up ahead to my planned camp. The gulley where I’d hoped to get water was dry as I climbed up the side. At the top there a small a trickle which was just enough to scoop up in my pan. A little higher I pitched my tent for the night.