The wind eased a bit during the night and for a time the sky was clear and full of stars. By morning the cloud cover had rolled in again but at least it wasn’t raining. Today’s objective is to visit the area of West Dun Hill and But Hill, which are areas I’ve never been to before. I had an easy walk east towards Crookburn Pike as I was following a faint quad bike track. Unfortunately it soon petered out and I had to wade through deep and soft heather. It was extremely difficult to make any headway as there were many unstable grass tufts which kept collapsing or toppling over as I stood on them. It’s not an experience that can be described adequately in words.

Lord's Seat rocks and inscription

inscription to William Wilson 1919 - 2009
there is nothing to say who William Wilson was

The distant ridge I was heading for didn’t seem to be getting any closer and I soon realised I’d have to modify my plans. I passed over the insignificant Crookburn Pike and started to decent towards Crook Burn. The moor was verging on impenetrable and I realised that aiming for West Dun Hill was pointless and futile with such conditions underfoot. Crook Burn was quite deep, rocky and interesting. There was also a substantial currick cairn and stone sheepfold. I crossed over to investigate a lone holly bush which seemed so out of place and amazing that it could survive in such an exposed place.

currick (cairn) near Crookburn Pike

crossing Crook Burn

I decided to abandon the original route and head across New Water and up Croglin Fell. It was an interesting looking valley and probably seldom visited due to no access track or path. On the far bank a large stone boundary wall had several gaps in it so getting access to the higher fell wasn’t a problem. I soon came to a sheepfold and a small building which could have been a shepherds hut many years ago. Making progress up the fell was almost as difficult as on the other side of the river. I came to another sheepfold then noticed a new road that had been constructed to service the line of shooting butts. I was glad to reach the road as I could make progress without too much effort.

The track soon met the main track running along the summit of Croglin Fell. I turned left, passing the wooden shooting hut, then continuing to the summit where a small quarry was being worked to get stone for the new road foundation. Several vehicles were about but I couldn’t see anybody. Looking down the track ahead were a couple of tractors near the wall and across the valley was the stone enclosure and ruin of Lawyer’s Cross building.

Quarry on Croglin Fell

Lawyer's Cross

As I approached the tractors I noticed men sat in the cabs, presumably on their lunch break. I crossed the wall through a gap for the stream to cross and set off for Lawyer’s Cross. The farmer had got out of his cab and restarted his work. He was looking over the wall and seemed to say something but I couldn’t hear because of the wind. I walked up to him and he was asking if I was lost. I told him I knew where I was but as I was talking to a local I asked him about Lawyer’s Cross. He said he remembered it 40 years ago with the roof still on. It was last occupied in the 1920s or 30s. The family who last lived there were Scotts or Dodds. He knows the ruin as Stowgill Cott.

His farm is local but didn’t say which one. He said he had a picture of Lawyer’s Cross as it used to be. I passed Lawyer’s Cross and continued to Black Cleugh where I’d camped previously. I pitched my tent just below my previous camp.

old bucket at Lawyer's Cross