Sun 17 Jul 2011
I'd wanted to take my cycle to the Outer Hebrides for ages and today I thought I'd do something about it. I set off about 07:15am with my bike in the back of the car to drive to the ferry terminal at Oban. The weather forecast was awful and I drove through torrential rain on the motorway which was so bad I had to keep switching lanes to get out of the spray from the vehicle in front. Apart from the weather the drive was easy and uneventful. I reached Oban about 12:30 and headed for the long stay car park at Longsdale Road. It is next to the Sports Centre and I'd previously phoned them about it and they warned me that it was usually full. They were right. I had some time before the ferry was due to leave to I waited and eventually someone left and I was able to find a space.

Rover ticket

I assembled my bike, fitted the panniers and rode down to the ferry terminal under overcast skies and light rain. I went to the ticket desk to buy an Island Rover ticket. It cost me £51 for an 8 day ticket which gives me access to any Calmac ferry and my bike goes free. It is astonishingly good value. I paid by debit card and was surprised to be handed a chit to sign and not the usual terminal where I had to enter my PIN number. I can’t remember the last time I used my debit card this way.

bikes waiting in the rain at Oban

The ferry was due to leave at 15:40 so I had plenty of time to kill. There was an excellent seafood stall on the harbour and I had one of their crab and tomato sandwiches which was a culinary delight. I walked in to Oban centre to sample some chips from a chippy which I'd heard had a good reputation. The rumour was correct. Back at the terminal the drizzle had turned to torrential rain. All the cycles waiting for the ferry were parked outside and I'd fortunately already fixed a plastic bag over my leather saddle. When the departure time approached we all wheeled our bikes down the ramp into the car bay area and lashed them to the hull side with a rope. All seemed well and we all climbed the steps the various deck levels.

I found a comfy seat and waited for departure and the 4hr 20 mins trip. We were 15mins late leaving due to the train being late and the ferry waiting for it. This sort of delay is fully justifiable on behalf of the ferry but the train shouldn't have been late. The crossing to Castlebay, Barra was very interesting. The rain and high winds made for a lumpy ride with spray crashing over the top and swaying decks. The sound of seasick people retching was also prevalent. We battled into a headwind so arrived at Castlebay quite late. This was only a minor stop and most of the passengers were continuing on to South Uist. However, all the cycles were getting off here and none of the cars.

Barra bikes

the ferry delivers us to Castlebay, Barra

The cars hadn't been parked but more like abandoned which meant that when we tried to wheel our bikes off we couldn't because of three abreast cars blocking the way. They had to use the tanoy to get the drivers to come and move their cars. This is not the fault of the drivers but the incompetent Calmac operatives directing the cars on in the first place. The skies were still very overcast and gloomy with light rain and a strong northerly wind. I cycled out towards Vatersay for a couple of miles and found somewhere to pitch my tent in a small sheep pen by the road.

 .