Sat 23 Jul 2011
A clear and cold night. It dropped to 5degC and by sunrise everything was saturated with a heavy dew. The conditions also favoured the midges. I had everything packed up and bags on the bike just before 8am. I looked down and noticed I hadn't fitted my milometer to the bike. It wasn't in my pocket so I had to unpack everything in clouds of midges. I found it wrapped in the tent. Having lost 15mins and feeling very annoyed with myself I set off in cool sunshine. I hadn't been going long before I started the first of many climbs and descents. The roads were reminiscent of the Lake District but these were quiet and tourist free. Signposts had indicated Calgary ahead and I was expecting some sort of small village.

Calgary Bay

Loch Tuath

As with other expectations I was disappointed. A few houses and a cafe that was closed was all I saw as I passed through. After a steep descent to Calgary bay I started a long climb over the peninsular. It was long but not too steep but the descent over the top was very windy and steep.

The first part of the coast road was a rapid succession of short steep climbs and descents but by the time I reached the Ulva ferry turn off the gradients had eased. The ride along the north side of Loch Na Keal was wonderful and I had views across the loch to Ben More and below the road I'd be following round. At a road junction at the head of the loch was Gruline but as always it was just a few spaced out houses. Riding along the south side of the loch was even more spectacular as there were hardly any gradients to the road making the going very easy. Cast iron roadside markers also indicated the distance to Iona. The first showing 32miles.

32 miles to Iona

the road along Loch na Keal

jellyfish in the sea loch

The water was wonderfully clear and for a considerable stretch I could see masses of jellyfish bobbing along the shore, just below the surface. At Balnahard the road leaves the sea and starts a spectacular climb diagonally up the hillside to Gleann Seilisdeir. The sharp climb was the way I'd come up but the descent was long and a much less gradient.

on the climb up to Gleann Seilisdeir

Back at sea level I had a flat and easy ride to the junction with the A849. To the right is Iona but my way was to the left which indicated 19miles to Craignure and the ferry. I'd decided to camp about 10miles short of the ferry and catch it tomorrow. There was a steady climb up the glen and just over the summit I decided to stop and camp high in the hope that the wind would deter the midges. There was also a good water supply nearby. The ground was rather lumpy but I though that better than my original plan as I could see it far below in the trees, and presumably midges. 53.63 miles today.

Kilfinichen Bay
This amazing converted Fisherman's bothy is available as a holiday home.
I was amazed how reasonable the charges are:
Low Season Weekly cost for 2 people £230
High Season Weekly cost for 2 people £280
http://www.kilfinichen.com/fishermans-bothy.html