the long descent towards Tarbert

a deserted Tarbert

I continued in to Tarbert and a quick cycle tour of the town, which took about 3 mins, including sightseeing. I bought a bacon and cheese pasty from the village store which seemed to be the only place open. I sat by the harbour adjacent the waiting area for the ferry. It slowly filled as we waited for the ferry to arrive. From being deserted when I first sat down the whole area was a mass of cars, mobile homes and people as the ferry time approached. For a short while the weather improved and the harbour was bathed in warm sunshine.

The ferry left at 11:50 and I headed for the restaurant to tuck in to a plate of sausage, chips and peas. The weather improved during the crossing and there were lovely views of the surrounding islands and distant hills. We reached the Isle of Skye and headed in to the port of Uig in sunshine. Apart for the harbour there isn't anything else there. Just before 14:00 I set off in warm sunshine south along the A87. The road was good and fast which means that the traffic drives along it at motorway speeds which is not good for cyclists.

time for sausage, chips and peas on the ferry

Harris viewed across the wake of the ferry

the ferry at Uig on Skye

cycling across Skye

There were nice views of the distant hills as I approached Portree and I'd hoped to pick up some food there. The road didn't go through the town centre so I stopped at a garage to buy some bottled water. Riding up Glen Varragill was a steady climb and looked interesting on the map but was fairly drab because of pine trees both sides. It was nice to get open views by Loch Sligachan then I started another steady climb, this time with nice mountain views. Over the summit there was a spectacular descent back down to the sea. The weather continued nice and sunny but the fast road was still full of high speed traffic and I wanted to get off it as soon as possible. At Harrapool I stopped briefly to check my options.

The last ferry from Armadale to Mallaig was 18:40 and the time was around 17:00. With about 17 miles to go there was a good chance I could make the ferry. I turned off on to the A851 which thankfully had much less traffic on it. The first part was a steady climb but over the summit I had a wonderful sweeping descent to the coast by the Sound of Sleet. I was managing a good speed as I rode along the coast and when the ferry pier appeared in the distance I knew I'd be able to make the ferry. I was the only cyclist on the ferry and we set off on time at 18:40 and arriving in Mallaig at 19:10.

the Mallaig ferry arrives at Armadale

West view from the A830

 I rode south along the A830 keeping an eye out for somewhere to camp. Water would be the major problem. I followed the B8008 along the coast as there would be nice views and also there was a camping sign. Eventually I came to the camp site which is called Camusdarach and rode down the access road to the house and reception. I felt like I was being scrutinise by the Spanish Inquisition as the woman asked me questions. Wanting to leave at 7am tomorrow seemed to throw her as they don't open till 8am and how could I get my key deposit back. I explained I didn't need a shower block key but she insisted. I reluctantly paid my £10 fee for a single tent and bike, which is extortionate.