Fri 22 Jul 2011
A calm night but some cloud first thing. The temperature is still quite cold for the time of year, mostly being in single figures. After chatting with the man in the adjoining tent for a few minutes I cycled down to the site house to leave the unused key in the plant pot as instructed then rejoined the road and headed off along the coast. The clean white beaches were certainly amazing and the weather was still clear enough to see many distant peaks.

first picture of the day is my new Titanium pan.
A lot of money for a bit of weight saving
but hopefully worth it.

strange animal ahead

I rejoined the main A830 which has had a lot of major upgrading done to it. The traffic was still very fast but there wasn't anything like the volume on Skye. At Lochailort I turned right to join the A861 along the shore of Loch Ailort. The road surface was variable and hardly any traffic. Looking down into the sea loch as I passed I could see the rocks deep below the surface as the sun shone down through the crystal clear water. The sky was patchy cloud which had rolled in over the last hour. The road was far from flat and was a succession of climbs descents and level stretches. At Glenuig there were a few buildings surrounding the road junction. One was labelled the shop and post office but was shut and unoccupied. A long steep climb followed which was quite pleasant in the warm sun. Over the summit the cloud rolled in again and I had a long and very cold descent in to Kinlochmoidart. I stopped to investigate another wayside information board. This was to the Seven Men of Moidart who assisted Bonnie Prince Charlie. Another steep climb followed up through the trees then down in to the Loch Shiel area.

I stopped at Loch Shiel Bridge where contractors were doing major refurbishment work to the bridge supports I stopped to take a few photos then continued to Salen where I was surprised to find more than one shop. The map gives no indication what a place will be like and named place could be shops or an abandoned building.

repairs to Loch Shiel bridge

Scotch Pie

I stopped for a £1.50 scotch pie which they heated up for me. A short way ahead I turned right and left the A861 on to the B8007. The road follows the north side of Loch Sunart and it would not be unreasonable to assume it would be a pleasant meander by the loch. The reality is that the road is a constant succession of steep climbs, steep descents and hardly any flat in between. The views across the loch made up for it and taking things easy made for an enjoyable ride.

the way to go

Salen Hall

Behind some trees was Glenborrodale Castle which was incredibly impressive but 'private' signs were there to keep people out.

Glenborrodale Castle

Ardnamurchan Estates

Camas Bay from the climb over the peninsular

At Ardslignish the road leaves the shore area and heads up a long climb over the Ardnamurchan Peninsula. It was very impressive and over the summit a descent followed above Loch Mudle and stunning mountains across the sea. After a left turn I started the long descent in to Kilchoan.

ferry sign

the Tobermory ferry arrives at Kilchoan

It was quite a transformation coming from the empty roads into a thriving village. Having the local games on today helped to swell the crowds as I cycled down to the pier. The pier and ferry jetty were deserted and I had almost an hour to wait for the ferry.

crossing the Sound of Mull

It was still sunny but very cold in the wind so I found shelter behind a pier wall. The ferry to Tobermory, Oban arrived and many people who got on were foot passengers from the nearby games celebrations. Most were Mums and children. In Tobermory it was warm and sunny and I stopped for some Haddock and Chips from a cabin by the pier.

a stop for Haddock and Chips in Tobermory

the distinctive buildings of Tobermory

I cycled up another steep hill out of town onto the B8073 for a mile or so until I came to a campsite which I stopped at. This was far more reasonable at £7 and was more pleasant than yesterday’s.